Amidst Old Tombstones at Kirkmichael Trust Cemetery
The Kirkmichael Trust Cemetery in the Scottish highlands has done some serious restoration work, bringing old medieval tombstones into a restored church building for preservation and display. The stones outside, as well as the small mausoleum, are also worth a visit if you like old cemeteries -- its just a bit off the main itinerary for your North Coast 500 road trip.
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When I travel, I love visiting old cemeteries. They’re not creepy (well, at least most of them) and are full of history and symbolism. The Kirkmichael Trust cemetery on the Black Isle in the Scottish Highlands has been doing some serious restoration work. Both with the church buildings and with recovering many of its medieval slabs from beneath the turf. Here’s more about our visit there. If you want more photos from the cemetery, there’s a small gallery at the bottom of this post.
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Black Isle sounds like sort of a forbidding name. However, this part of the Scottish Highlands is neither black nor an island. Situated North of Inverness, it’s a peninsula. Attached to land but, mostly surrounded by water, it would have seemed like an island before the bridges were built. Its (former) dense forests earned it its designation of “Black.”If you’re driving the North Coast 500, the Black Isle is a bit off the designated path. However, it’s worth it if you have the time, particularly if you’re interested in Pictish history, its brewery, or, like me, old cemeteries. While there are many more cemeteries in the vicinity, the Kirkmichael Trust cemetery is special. Between 2016 and 2018, they’ve been doing extensive restoration work, including refurbishing old buildings and recovering medieval tomb slabs from beneath the turf. But if you have the time and are really into visiting cemeteries, you can travel the “Cromarty Firth Kirkyard Trail” mentioned in their leaflet. In the video below, you can see what kind of condition the church was in before restoration.https://player.vimeo.com/video/100102102The restored church now houses stones that once rested under the turf in the kirkyard. Some date back to medieval times, some from the 1700s.
The Little Mausoleum at Kirkmichael Trust Cemetery
Overlooking Udale Bay on the cemetery grounds stands the little mausoleum of the Grants of Ardoch.
Above the entrance to the mausoleum are the names of William Grant and his first wife, Florence Dunbar, who passed on in 1680 – the year the structure went up. Inside, there’s also a tribute to his second wife. An epitaph reads, “Grieve not when friends and kinfolks die, they gain by death eternitie.”This little cemetery has enough to keep a taphophile (someone interested in cemeteries, tombstones, and the like) busy for hours. From skulls and crossbones to trade tools, to fleur-de-lis patterns, hourglasses …there’s much to find here in the way of symbolism. However, many of the older tombstones still can be hard to read — the restoration work goes on. Mixed in with the old tombstones are new. My favorite:
Where is the Kirkmichael Trust Cemetery?
You’ll find the Kirkmichael Trust Cemetery near the tip of the Black Isle off B-163. Our planned trip turned into a back road adventure due to a bridge and road closure, but we eventually arrived there (at my insistence). For those who are unfamiliar with driving in the Scottish highlands, heed my advice. Bring both a printed map book, and have GPS equipped in your rental car.
The above map is a static image. If you’d like to access the live, interactive map page, click here or on the map image.
Photos from Kirkmichael Trust
The old church building at Kirkmichael was lovingly restored, and now houses many of the old tombstone slabs for preservation.
The old church building at Kirkmichael was lovingly restored, and now houses many of the old tombstone slabs for preservation.
The cemetery at Kirkmichael overlooks Udale bay on the North side of the Black Isle in Scotland.
The cemetery at Kirkmichael overlooks Udale bay on the North side of the Black Isle in Scotland.
This little mausoleum stands overlooking Udale Bay
This little mausoleum stands overlooking Udale Bay
This little mausoleum sits in the Kirkmichael Trust cemetery. The epitaph at the top reads “Grieve not when friends and kinsfolks die. They gain by death eternitie.” The mausoleum honors the Grants of Ardoch and the stone at the top commemorates William Grant and his first wife, Florence Dunbar, who died in 1680.
This little mausoleum sits in the Kirkmichael Trust cemetery. The epitaph at the top reads “Grieve not when friends and kinsfolks die. They gain by death eternitie.” The mausoleum honors the Grants of Ardoch and the stone at the top commemorates William Grant and his first wife, Florence Dunbar, who died in 1680.
The top of the Grants of Ardoch Mausoleum commemmorates William Grant, and his first wife, Florence Dunbar, who died in 1680. He gave lands to his second wife, who has a stone at the back of the mausoleum.
The top of the Grants of Ardoch Mausoleum commemmorates William Grant, and his first wife, Florence Dunbar, who died in 1680. He gave lands to his second wife, who has a stone at the back of the mausoleum.
This is the stone of Florence Dunbar, the first wife of William Grant, inside the mausoleum. This one displays a crest with a stag and three crowns.
This is the stone of Florence Dunbar, the first wife of William Grant, inside the mausoleum. This one displays a crest with a stag and three crowns.
An old slab outside at Kirkmichael. This one also shows the tools of the deceased’s trade.
An old slab outside at Kirkmichael. This one also shows the tools of the deceased’s trade.
Inside the building at Kirkmichael, old slabs from the cemetery outside have been brought in for preservation. This one dates from 1725.
Inside the building at Kirkmichael, old slabs from the cemetery outside have been brought in for preservation. This one dates from 1725.
Close up of the Skull and crossbones from the large grave slab. This gentleman was a blacksmith and shows tools of his trade.
Close up of the Skull and crossbones from the large grave slab. This gentleman was a blacksmith and shows tools of his trade.
This is a doorway style memorial brought into the Kirkmichael building for preservation. The symbolism here is that the deceased would pass through the doorway into the next life.
This is a doorway style memorial brought into the Kirkmichael building for preservation. The symbolism here is that the deceased would pass through the doorway into the next life.
Note the angels blowing horns to raise the dead and the winged souls at the top of this doorway memorial.
Note the angels blowing horns to raise the dead and the winged souls at the top of this doorway memorial.
An hourglass serves as a memento mori at the bottom of the Urquhart of Braelangwell doorway memorial at Kirkmichael.
An hourglass serves as a memento mori at the bottom of the Urquhart of Braelangwell doorway memorial at Kirkmichael.
The Kirkmichael Trust took the eight armed wheel on the Kirkmichael Cross as their symbol
The Kirkmichael Trust took the eight armed wheel on the Kirkmichael Cross as their symbol
Detail of the Kirkmichael Cross
Detail of the Kirkmichael Cross
Another old slab from the cemetery now brought into the Kirkmichael building for preservation. Again, this one shows a sword and a star and fleur-de-lis motif.
Another old slab from the cemetery now brought into the Kirkmichael building for preservation. Again, this one shows a sword and a star and fleur-de-lis motif.
Many of the medieval stones in the highlands were destroyed — but around the Black Isle there were many that were preserved. At Kirkmichael, several were recovered from beneath the turf during the renovation. This one has an eight pointed star motif and a sword.
Many of the medieval stones in the highlands were destroyed — but around the Black Isle there were many that were preserved. At Kirkmichael, several were recovered from beneath the turf during the renovation. This one has an eight pointed star motif and a sword.
An old stone from the cemetery, now brought in for preservation at Kirkmichael.
An old stone from the cemetery, now brought in for preservation at Kirkmichael.
Another stone brought inside for preservation at Kirkmichael.
Another stone brought inside for preservation at Kirkmichael.
This stone is newly carved as an example of what the older stones might have looked like new.
This stone is newly carved as an example of what the older stones might have looked like new.
Flowers are common on highland gravestones.
Flowers are common on highland gravestones.
Have you been to this cemetery? Feel free to leave a comment.
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